RECOMMENDED: Gobelsburger 2009 Riesling, Kamptal, Austria. $16.79-19.99, available for as little as $13.95. 12.5% ABV.

We’re stunned at the wide variety of styles that can be produced from the Riesling grape. Still, sparkling, and everything in-between. Austere/dry, to cloyingly sweet.

The Schloss Gobelsburg was slightly effervescent (not quite frizzante), and even reminiscent of Champagne in terms of its flavor. It started out extremely dry, fresh, crisp, tart, astringent, steely, and acidic. This doesn’t sound totally pleasant, but it honestly was very interesting.

As it opened up, it still had a wet rock quality to it, but became creamy AND effervescent at the same time. I’ve no idea how that’s possible, but this was the rather wild experience. Layers and layers continued to happen, with its sweet, fruity secret finally being revealed in the last glass.

I love it when a wine has this much complexity and variety of experiences. It’s like going on a cruise for vacation, rather than staying in one place for the week. Or, like That Friend who wears Prada and is reserved for a while but then she has all these cool sides to her once she opens up.

In Wine & Spirits magazine Best of 2010, Schloss Gobelsburg was among the Top 100 wineries. Their 2008 Riesling was among the Top 100 best buys with a rating of 92. According to importer Terry Theise, the 2009 Gobelsburg is “the best vintage yet, and a fantastically limey, bright Riesling, with detail and charm and a fine mirabelle fruit.”

LABEL NOTES: None. (A Terry Theise Estate Selection. Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY 11791.)


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