Turkey, Part One. “Life doesn’t happen by doing the practical, sensible, or reasonable.”

Today, the third Thursday in November, is Beaujolais Nouveau Day. Yet on this day of French celebration, all I can think about is Turkey as I unwind from my week-long journey to that country, where I visited the city of Izmir and the regions of Manisa and Denizli.

The purpose of the amazing trip was to attend the EWBC (European Wine Bloggers) Digital Media Conference and the post-conference visits to rural wineries and ancient historic sites. At home now, as I continue to savor the undercurrent of primal, eternal wildness I experienced there, the fireplace in my home office has come to life for the first time this season.

Minor inconveniences pale in comparison to the journey and to lessons learned. The second leg of my trip from Florida to Turkey, the flight from JFK to Istanbul, was cancelled because of the snowstorm that hit NYC on November 7th, just a week after Hurricane Sandy hit the area. (The photo is of JFK Airport on November 8th, the afternoon after the airport’s closure on the 7th; plows were still at work.) After sitting on the plane for more than four hours only to be booted off, I joined thousands of others who had to wait in long lines to reschedule flights, and then find places to sleep in the terminal.

During the three hours I spent on the airport’s Delta telephone to reschedule my flight, at first I came to the conclusion that it would be far more sensible to simply go home than to arrive at the conference two days late. And then—after having had the refund applied to my card, and a ticket guaranteed for my flight back to Orlando the next morning—I said to the helpful representative, for perhaps the 25th time, “Can I ask you a question?” And this time, my question was, “What if we could go back to that Turkish Air flight you proposed, which was to fly to Istanbul tomorrow at 1:55 and connect to Izmir the next morning?”

Fortunately for me, after a soft “you’ve gotta be kidding me” chuckle from him, his answer was, “Let me see what I can do.” Toward the end of those seven hours of waiting and frustration, I realized I would probably never have the chance again to go to Turkey, let alone on a fellowship, and the thought clearly came to me: “If you don’t DO what you want to do, then you’ll never get to do what you want to do.” I want to travel the world and experience new cultures and people and joys. Sounds frightfully obvious. Nonetheless: LESSON ONE.

The next inconvenience was sleeping in JFK Airport. When I asked an airport employee if he knew of a place to take a shower in the airport, he suggested I try the Delta Sky Club, which offers 24-hour memberships for $50. However, when I arrived at their front desk, an overwhelming attitude of “Upstairs Downstairs” prevailed. I, and many others, were informed that we were “not allowed” to make such a purchase; the majority of people floating in and around the club were men “living the lie,” clearly puffed up with their own self-importance; and I even saw a famous actor there who kept circling around and staring at me—at first, I made eye contact, as I wanted to tell him how much I appreciated his work, but he did a very peculiar flashing eye-glint thing at me. I don’t know, perhaps he was high.

At any rate, I walked out, feeling a sense of freedom and relief as I walked down their hallway back to the rest of Terminal 3. I found a restaurant with thin carpet tile and several other people sacked out here and there, found a spot on the floor reasonably close to a young fellow who looked strong in case trouble should arise, used my carry-on that had my computer, passport and purse in it as my “cuddle buddy,” covered same and self with the blankets that were handed out by Delta, and packed it in for the night. Frankly, I felt safer there among the “great unwashed” than I did in the club. And, I was thankful to have a roof over my head, unlike the tens of thousands of people who were homeless from the previous week’s Hurricane Sandy, only to be hit by this.

The next afternoon, I boarded the Turkish Airways flight to Istanbul for the rescheduled second leg of the trip. As I enjoyed my in-flight dinner—the best airplane food I’ve ever had—I was flooded with gratitude and happiness that I had chosen to continue on. “Life does not happen by doing the practical, sensible, or reasonable” (such as going home when it would have been easier to do so). LESSON TWO.

After reaching my final destination about 16 hours later, I learned my checked bag had been lost. No big surprise, with all the chaos in NYC, but another inconvenience. I lived in the same outfit for the next three days, in addition to the previous two overnights on an airport floor and in an airplane. There is something surreal about doing laundry in the bathtub of a Swissotel, and using a handheld hair dryer to dry everything. But it was okay. And, amazingly, the very minute I was leaving the hotel’s counter on Sunday morning, checking out and preparing to scurry to the other part of the hotel to catch the post-conference excursion, my bag materialized! The delivery person had arrived literally that moment and I was right there to sign for it. Sometimes life is too strange to understand, but it makes for fun story-telling later on.

Then there was the matter of my debit card not working. I had forgotten to notify my banker that I was traveling, and Turkey was on their “closed” list. A call to the bank as soon as they were open again put all of that back into good order, but on future trips I will remember to call the bank before I leave. An obvious practicality to many, but nonetheless, for me, LESSON THREE. Thanks to Robert McIntosh for bailing me out.

I’m safely back now after an uneventful flight back, although I will say that “Don’t travel in and out of JFK” is, for me, LESSON FOUR.

Today I am truly enjoying the fireplace and the peace of my own home after the chaos of the airport.

The next couple of posts will be about the trip itself, so stay tuned!

LINKS:
Conference schedule, http://ewbc.vrazon.com/schedule/
Post-conference excursion, http://ewbc.vrazon.com/ewbc-2012-post-trip-1-manisa-denizli/

 

Posted in Awards, Travel, Turkey | 9 Comments

European Wine Bloggers Conference

Well, I’m leaving on a jet plane tomorrow for the European Wine Bloggers Conference in Izmir, Turkey, of all places. Izmir is on the western edge of Turkey, on the Aegean Sea. I’ll be flying all day and landing at 2:00 Izmir time on Thursday.

I’m terrifically honored to have received a fellowship to go. My heartfelt thanks to the sponsors at vrazon.com. I’ll be informally presenting my idea for a new international wine magazine and multimedia project to anyone who expresses an interest, and am looking forward to learning about a new-to-me culture. I’m particularly interested in how women wine professionals are faring in a Muslim nation, and what is happening regarding wine consumption itself. And of course, I’ll be tasting some fascinating new varietals!

After the three days in Izmir, I’ll be leaving for a three-day excursion to Manisa and Denizli, where we will be exploring the area’s historical and winemaking sites and enjoying the beautiful countryside, its history, its people, and its cuisine.

I hope to post updates, and I hope you enjoy them!

Over and out for now.

 

Posted in Awards, Travel, Visits to Vineyards/Winemakers | 2 Comments

RECOMMENDED: Erath 2009 Pinot Noir. 13.5% ABV, around $15.

Medium ruby. Nose of cherries, strawberry. First impression: a little hot, bright fruit, spicy at mid-palate with nutmeg. Softened as it opened up with cherry and raspberry added; could be the “hot” impression came from new oak. A good Oregon Pinot Noir at an excellent price point. Softened further as it opened up; truly a good value.

LABEL: Grapes from the EARTH, wines from the HEART … ERATH. This soft and approachable Oregon Pinot Noir appeals to red and white wine lovers alike. Crafted to highlight Pinot’s best characteristics, enjoy it on its own or discover how well it pairs with a wide variety of foods, from fish to pasta to red meat.

WEB: www.Erath.com.

Posted in Oregon, Pinot Noir | Leave a comment

RECOMMENDED: 2010 Cryptic, California red blend. 14.5% ABV, $18 SRT; available for less.

If you haven’t decided on your Halloween
wine yet, here’s a quick recommendation: the 2010 Cryptic red blend. It is delicious, inexpensive, and fun, with backwards lettering and scramble puzzles on the label that you must decipher in order to determine the blend.

NOTES: Cryptic refers to the mysterious alchemy that comes from combining individual lots of wine together to create a magical blend. The three Cs on our encryption wheel each represent one of three varietal components: Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Each grape varietal adds a unique characteristic to the blend, and when blended together the result is unexpected and unique. Cryptic is sourced from vineyards we control and from grapes we crush from [more than] 30 different vineyards. These vineyards are located in three distinctive growing areas: Amador County in the Sierra Foothills, the Lodi River Delta and Paso Robles in the Central Coast. Each of these areas is known for soils, climate and growing conditions that produce big, rich and bold red wine grapes. Cryptic sets the mood for a magical experience to be shared. Complex, supple and seductive, with ripe raspberry, dark blackberry and blueberry flavors, notes of toasted hazelnuts, a hint of vanilla and a touch of mocha on the finish.

WINEMAKER: Alex Cose studied finance and worked for Wells Fargo for six years before a change of heart landed him a harvest internship at Monticello Cellars in Napa Valley. After a return to college, another couple of internships and a degree in Enology from Fresno State, at 27, he was cellar master at Peter Michael.

WEB: www.CrypticWines.com

Sample received for review.

Posted in Cabernet Sauvignon, California, Petite Sirah, Red Blend, Zinfandel | 1 Comment

RECOMMENDED: Insomnia White Wine Blend, California. Around $10.

As we approach Halloween, I’ll report on a couple of finds that would be fun to enjoy on that dark and spooky night.

The Insomnia is a good place to start: it seems to be readily available (in our area, anyway) even though I hadn’t seen it before this year. Besides the white blend reviewed here, they also make a red.

Pale. Intense floral aroma, matched in flavor but with slight bitterness mid-palate—that was a surprise. And soap as the wine opened up again where it was initially bitter—yet another surprise! My first guess was that Viognier was predominant, and that was correct.

LABEL: Viognier. Sauvignon Blanc. Chardonnay. This wine captures the essence of each. This unusual blend’s alluring kaleidoscope of bright flavors dance on the palate … lingering well into the back palate. Enjoy with food. Enjoy alone.

WEB NOTES: Don’t envy those to whom sleep comes easily. They have never experienced the utter stillness of the night, where the edges blur around reality. Colors are brighter; sounds, sharper. The deep night is the hardest time to be alone—but you will know your soul in solitude as you cross that invisible line into the alternate reality of darkness. Join us.

WEB: http://insomnia-wines.com/

 

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED: Bricco Dei Tati 2008 Barbera, DOC Piemonte, Italy. 12.5% ABV, $9 and up.

Just delicious. This fresh, off-the-beaten-path red started out with some funky barnyard on the nose, but opened up quickly and gave way to dust, lively black fruits, and some spice. Medium-bodied but full-flavored, it tastes a lot more expensive than it is.

WEB NOTES: In the summer of 2006 Emanuele and Mary Beth Gaiarin purchased a modest vineyard of 1.5 hectares (3 American acres) covering a small hill in the heart of the Langhe growing region of Piedmont, Barbaresco DOC. The estate is planted primarily in Dolcetto grapes, but they cultivate grapes on two neighboring estates as well to make a Barbera and Cortese. The farm house, considered “new” by Italian standards, was built in the early 1800s and some of the vines in the vineyard are almost as old. The cantina and cellar are dug out of the hill directly under the house. The previous owners and their ancestors made organic Dolcetto and Barbera wines from the grapes on the property for as far back as anyone in the village can remember. In the small cellar are eight 7,000 liter cement tanks and a 100 year old grape press. Emanuele and Mary Beth live with their two sons in the farm house located on the estate where they oversee the winemaking using sustainable farming practices. They are creating excellent indigenous wines that are be sold at “every day” affordable prices, a concept that many wine estates around them reject since the glory is in the more expensive wines. The US market, however, has enthusiastically embraced the Tati wines and the concept behind them. Emanuele Gaiarin, a native of the coastal Veneto region of Italy, and Mary Beth Gaiarin, a native of Washington, D.C., are also founders and owners of Siema Wines, a U.S. importer and distributor of fine wines from small, family-owned estates from all over the world, located in Virginia and with distribution in fifteen east coast and mid-western states.

WEB: www.BriccoDeiTati.com, www.SiemaWines.com

Posted in Barbera, Italy | Leave a comment

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED: Pappas Wine Co. 2010 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley. 13.4% ABV, $18.99.

Beautiful light- to medium-ruby color with luscious pink edges. Gorgeous nose of strawberry, baking spices, cigar box—and an occasional whiff of dust and blood because of the volcanic soil in the area. Juicy and succulent, balanced, lively, just wonderful. It isn’t sweet, yet it reminded me of a dark-red mid-’60s-era (before they changed the formula) Charms pop because of its piquant freshness and depth. Refreshing and not a hot fruit/alcohol bomb—SO beautifully made. An excellent Oregon Pinot at a bargain price.

LABEL: Symbolic of community, family and friendship, Pinot Noir can now assume its noble place at the daily table. We at Pappas Wine Co. are devoted to bold, inspiring wines and proudly deliver Pinot for the People! ~Athena Pappas and Stewart Boedecker

CLOSURE: Screw cap.

WEB: www.BoedeckerCellars.com

 

Posted in Oregon, Pinot Noir | Leave a comment

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED: Manos Negras 2009 Carménère, Colchagua, Chile. 14% ABV, $15.

Well, folks, this is going to be brief. That’s because I took hardly any tasting notes and haven’t been able to find another bottle locally. This wine is just delicious, but only 1,000 cases were made—if you can find it, grab it while you can.

The most gorgeous, translucent garnet color.
Black cherry, cedar nose.
Rich, fresh, transcendent.

LABEL: Real winemakers get their hands dirty. Hands black with wine. That’s what Manos Negras is all about. Rolling up our sleeves and getting our hands dirty. That’s how we make these hand crafted wines. Carménère has quickly developed into Chile’s signature red wine grape. It disappeared in European vineyards in the mid-1800s and reappeared in Chile more than 100 years later. Needing a long growing season to reach ripeness, the cool moderate autumns in Colchagua allow Carménère to develop its signature dark, rich fruit flavors and full, yet soft texture.

CLOSURE: Screwcap.

WEB: www.VinDelSol.com

Posted in Carmenere, Chile | Leave a comment

Winemakers’ Dinner, Columbia Gorge

One of the traditions of the Wine Bloggers Conference is the “mystery bus” jaunt. Bloggers bravely board buses, blindfolded. (Not really, just had to get in that alliteration.) All we know is that we are headed to a winery, where we will be served dinner whose multiple courses will be paired with multiple winemakers’ offerings.

The group’s destination is revealed during the journey, sometimes by  people in the know on the bus, sometimes by theatrical scenarios such as this year’s state trooper who stopped one of the buses for a bogus “situation,” revealed where the bus would be “detained,” and then directed traffic for the bus to go elsewhere later on. Hey, no one ever said wine blogging doesn’t get kinky once in a while. As Ken Kesey said, “You’re either on the bus or off the bus.”

All I knew was, I wanted to be on Bus Number One. And so I was. Our bus left the city of Portland and headed east. The scenery became more and more beautiful, complete with craggy rock formations, the Multnomah Waterfall, Columbia Gorge and Columbia River, and bald eagles. We were poured glasses of sparkling wine by Sierra Wright, a young woman who turned out to be the daughter of one of the winemakers, surely a rising winemaker herself. She was also the person who let the cat out of the bag and told us we were being hosted by the Oregon Wine Board, and that we were on our way to Phelps Creek Vineyards, in the Columbia Gorge AVA, one of the few AVAs that crosses state lines (Oregon and Washington). From the OWB Web site: “Just 60 miles east of Portland, the Columbia Gorge Wine region lies in the heart of the Columbia River Gorge, a dramatic river corridor that straddles the Columbia River for 15 miles into both Oregon and Washington. This region, which encompasses 40 miles, includes both the Columbia Gorge AVA and part of the Columbia Valley AVA. Lewis and Clark first made the Columbia Gorge famous when they passed through on their way to the Pacific Ocean in 1805.”

The bus stopped at the bottom of a civilized yet challenging gravel driveway that wended its way up a mountain. We were met by three vehicles that took us on a hayride; I opted for the pickup truck in order to avoid the tractor’s diesel fumes. (I live on a farm in Florida and own a diesel tractor, so was well aware of the “nose” as well as the heat that would emanate from its engine’s exhaust.) The driveway, winding around hills and climbing its way to the top, reminded me of the winding road up to my Dad’s place in West Virginia.

And then, the glorious view from the top, with Mount Hood’s majestic presence in the distance.


Our hayrides continued into the valley for a reception, where the five wineries’ families and representatives were setting up their tasting stations. On the far left is Sierra; she and her Dad, Lonnie Wright, were pouring the family’s The Pines wines. The woman in the foreground with her back turned is Nanette Eaton, chief bottle opener at the Wine Harlots blog. The other folks will pop up and be introduced in photos below.


Flowers by Wildwood Farm. Gorgeous arrangements!


We enjoyed a brief tour of one of the Phelps Creek vineyards, although most of us didn’t venture out for long in the 100-degree heat. The view of Mount Hood standing sentry was just as lovely from beneath the shade tree!

We headed back up the hill for an alfresco dinner at the Phelps Creek homestead. A beautiful setting (Riverhood Rentals) and a beautiful menu (Din Din Supper Club & Catering) awaited us.

Our hosts, Robert Morus and his daughter, Becky Morus. As you can see, it was a very hot evening, but everyone had a wonderful time anyway. Photo ©2012 Brian W. Robb, from www.facebook.com/PhelpsCreekWinery.

The food courses were absolutely delicious, and the wine pairings were very interesting (more on that in a moment). But the heart of the evening was the people: these amazing winemakers, how they fell in love with wine and winemaking, how they found and developed their properties in Oregon, how they’re making wine today, and the sheer passion with which they’re doing so.

With each new course, another winemaker joined a new table and spent 15 minutes or so visiting and talking about their wines.

Lonnie Wright is pictured below, and information about him and The Pines Vineyard appears underneath his picture. We had already heard some of his vineyard’s story from his daughter, Sierra, on the bus trip.

Sierra Wright gave us a brief history of The Pines Vineyard. An Italian stonemason named Louis Cimone settled eight acres and planted Zinfandel in 1895. He made wine for decades, even during Prohibition (his boss was a priest). The property was abandoned in 1960, and Sierra’s Dad, Lonnie Wright, bought the land in the early 1980s; he and his family moved onto the property in 1989. Lonnie had a significant background in winemaking that started in 1978; he learned the craft of viticulture when he and several others planted 2,000 acres in two years, creating the first vineyards at Columbia Crest, a winery owned by Chateau St. Michelle, in Patterson, WA. Lonnie became the area manager for 650 acres of grapes and supervised the first harvest. Today Lonnie’s vineyard consists of 20 acres of the Old Zin, new Zin planted in 1987 and 2002, Merlot, and Syrah. Recently Lonnie was awarded the Lifetime Achievement Award by the Oregon Wine Board for work spanning “not only a personal lifetime, but the lifetime of the Oregon Wine Industry.” He was recognized for his work pioneering vineyards from 1978 to the present in the Columbia Gorge and Columbia Valley AVAs.

Speaking of the Oregon Wine Board, Michael Donovan, Chairman of the Board of the OWB, was our “official” host. He has been involved in the Oregon wine industry since 1973, and since 2003, he has been the Director of National Sales & Marketing
and a minority shareholder of RoxyAnn Winery in Medford. He has served as a member of the Marketing Committee of the OWB since 2008, when he was awarded the Distinguished Service Award by the OWB for service to the Oregon wine industry.

These folks represent Naked Winery: Kelly Medler, Marketing Communications Manager, and Peter Steinfeld, winemaker. If you think these folks look like imps who are having way too much fun, you’re right! With their wines bearing names such as “Jugs DD,” “Penetration Cab,” “Foreplay Chardonnay” … well, you get the picture. Visitors to the tasting room are greeted with a smile and the question, “Wanna get naked?” Truthfully, their 2009 “Oh! Tempranillo” knocked my, uh, socks off … yes, that’s it, socks.

I didn’t get a decent dinner-table picture of Hunter Morton, winemaker for Cathedral Ridge Winery. This isn’t a decent picture, either (it’s from the pre-dinner valley reception), but I couldn’t just leave the guy out. :-) He’s actually a strikingly handsome man, making strikingly handsome wines, with winemaker Michael Sebastiani (there’s that famous, fabulous name again).

Sebastiani wrote on the Web blog that the Hood River AVA includes a 40-mile stretch of land which encompasses dramatic temperature and rainfall changes and environments ranging from rain forest to desert, including areas that almost perfectly duplicate four of the world’s greatest grape-growing regions, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhone and Rhine. “Cathedral Ridge Winery is located less than thirty minutes from all four of these marvelous microclimates! The grapes travel less than 30 minutes to get to the winery allowing us to capture the most intense concentrations of flavors.” As with Columbia Gorge and Columbia River, the Hood River AVA environment changes rapidly in that with each mile further east, the annual rainfall decreases significantly. Cascade Locks gets 130 inches of rain/year and is called a temperate rainforest, but Underwood Mountain, less than half a mile away, gets only 60 inches. The Dalles, 18 miles further east, receives only 12 inches of rain, and five miles further east, only eight inches/year.

Hunter told us, “Not only are we blessed with a myriad of microclimates, but we have incredible soil, much of it volcanic from the Cascades, but also a good deal of rich soil was brought over from Montana during the Lake Missoula floods 10,000 years ago. Lake Missoula was huge, covering much of the northwest and would form great ice dams. When they broke, all the water would come rushing through the Gorge (thus helping to form it) on its way to the ocean. As it slowed, huge amounts of sediment were left behind. The Gorge is also known for its wind, which is very beneficial to the grapes. If we get moisture late in the season, the wind helps dry out the clusters and prevents mold and mildew. It also helps suck all that water back out of the grapes (evaporation from the leaves) so we can be ready to harvest more quickly. If the grapes take in too much water, it lowers the sugar and will weaken the wine if not allowed to dry back out. Late in the season this can be disastrous, as an early frost can hit while you are waiting and destroy the crop. The stress of farming.”

Rich Cushman, winemaker for Viento Wines, was graduated from Oregon State, went to UC Davis’s master’s program, spent time in Germany, and began making wine in the Willamette Valley in 1981 with the planting of his Riesling vineyard, now the oldest Riesling in the Gorge. He assisted with the beginnings of 18 other wineries, is currently the winemaker for Phelps Creek, Mt. Hood, Dry Hollow, consults for several wineries, and works with the Alain Fouquet French Cooperage in the Northwest. His philosophy is straightforward yet all-encompassing: “Winemaking is art, with science there to support your decisions. Winemaking is working with Mother Nature. Winemaking is natural, and pretty simple, really, so be minimalistic. Get fruit from the region where it grows best.” His two sons are involved in winemaking with him.

And now, the wines!

COURSE ONE:
Viento 2010 Gruner Veltliner. Citrusy, somewhat serious, golden. Rich called this, their fourth vintage, a “groovy” wine that is an “easy wine to make.”
Naked 2009 “Complicated” Viognier. Lightest color of the three. A whiff of bourbon, a hint of sweetness, yet piquant. Spicy, dry finish. Yeast. This was complicated!
The Pines 2009 Viognier. Darkest of the three. Grapes sourced from The Dalles, stainless steel aged. Softest of the three; balanced and round.

COURSE TWO:
Phelps Creek 2010 Reserve Chardonnay. Rich, Bob Morus’s winemaker, explained that they use French oak 1/3 one-year-old, 1/3 two-year-old, and 1/3 three-year-old. 80% malolactic. “We don’t have to do a whole lot to it.” Soft, nutty; honey as it opened.
Cathedral Ridge 2009 Reserve Chardonnay. Stronger and bolder. An interesting contrast.

COURSE THREE:
Phelps Creek 2008 Cuvee Alexandrine.
Green pepper nose, wonderful taste, much fruitier as it opened up. Bob Morus told the story of their associate winemaker, Alexandrine Roi, French winemaker. One year an early frost attacked the winery’s Pinot Noir grapes. They didn’t know what to do, so Alexandrine called PaPa, Marques Roi. Marques didn’t know what to do, but he called 80-year-old Claude, who had experienced this in 1956. He told them what to do. (Not that they told us, but it’s still a neat story.)
Cathedral Ridge 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir. Caramel, pipe tobacco, delicious. Dark cherry, raspberry, silky.

COURSE FOUR:
The Pines 2010 Old Vine Zinfandel.
Big old thing with almost Cabernet-like bubbles. Purple, blood, texture. A softer style of Zin.
Viento 2011 Barbera. Purple. Spicy nose, like Syrah.
Naked 2010 “Oh!” Tempranillo. Purple. Pipe tobacco, smoke, caramel. Smooth, soft. Beautiful. Cedar.

COURSE FIVE:
Phelps Creek 2009 Ice Wine.
Nose like a Champagne, dry; yet a sweet taste. Refreshing.
The Pines 2009 “Sweet Sierra.” Zinfandel made in a Port style. Delicious!
Viento 2009 Gewurtztraminer Ice Wine. Mango nose! Papaya.

Posted in Barbera, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Gruner Veltliner, Ice Wine, Oregon, Pinot Noir, Tastings, Tempranillo, Travel, Uncategorized, Viognier, Visits to Vineyards/Winemakers, Zinfandel | 17 Comments

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED: Klinker Brick 2010 Old Vine Zinfandel, Lodi. 15.8%, $13.95 and up.

My favorite way to try new wines is to go to a wine bar. Generally these are boutique yet friendly establishments that have wines on pour-it-yourself systems (you buy a card and dispense your own samples), as well as a knowledgeable bartender and waiters and a decent-to-excellent wine list.

I like to create my own flights—for example, I’ll ask for three different 2.5-ounce glasses of reds at the same time, to compare and contrast. I’ve found that a 2.5- or 3-ounce pour is more revealing than the splash that is a typical serving at a wine tasting. With a larger glass, one can experience more of what the wine has to say as it opens and changes.

Recently I did just that at the Ormond Wine Company in Ormond Beach, Florida. I sampled a few lovely wines that night, but found a wine so beautiful I bought a bottle and took it home: the 2010 Klinker Brick Old Vine Zinfandel.

This is the most delicious Zinfandel I’ve had in a long time, and it was so smooth that I was downright shocked to read the label later and find that its alcohol content weighs in at a whopping 15.8%. It doesn’t come across as hot at all. So be forewarned: this stuff is dangerously drinkable!

Made from 85-year-old vines, it starts with the expected bright, singing, soaring aromas and flavors one expects from a good Zinfandel, with just a hint of cedar. It is obviously a Big Boy, with delicious black cherry and raspberry, but it’s amazingly smooth and soft with very little tannins. The wine isn’t sweet, but it doesn’t have the mouth-puckering dryness going on, either. Later it yields flavors of cola, caramel, and baking spices—each layer is just delicious, and the finish is long and satisfying.

I paired it with a cup of delicious lobster bisque, and a roasted garlic bulb with roasted red pepper slices and a balsamic reduction. What a beautiful little meal.

WEB NOTES:

The 2010 vintage in Lodi was extraordinary with a long, cool growing season yielding beautiful, evenly ripened fruit. With aromas of black cherry, cedar shavings, vanilla and spice, this wine offers rich, supple flavors of cherries and plum, perfect balance and a long, smooth, lingering finish. Nutmeg, cardamom and pepper enhance an exotic nose but bright, dark fruits enhance a superb mouth filling experience. Our winemaker thinks this may be the vintage of the century!

About “Old Vine”: The most rich, intense and multi-dimensional Zinfandel tends to be produced from “Old Vines,” vines that are at least 50 years old. “Old Vines,” also known as Ancient Vines, Gnarly Vines, Old Timer Vines, Old World Vines or Old Twisted Vines are in decline, mature in age, with low vigor. They tend to have fewer clusters of grapes with smaller berry size, yielding more intense sugars, color and concentration of flavors, producing wines that are generally better balanced with more body and structure.

Don’t Forget the Soil and Climate: Soil and climate play an important role in the character and style of wines from Old Vine Vineyards. The longer, drier growing season in Lodi provides a distinct advantage over coastal areas. The grapes are able to “hang” longer on the vine, giving the pH and acid time to balance. This results in a wine with a longer, smoother finish. The deep, sandy loam soils enable the vines’ roots to grow deep and absorb moisture from below. Little water is needed, if at all, enhancing the color and flavor in the grapes.

WEB: www.KlinkerBrickWinery.com, www.OrmondWineCo.com

Posted in California, Restaurants, Tastings, Tips, Zinfandel | 7 Comments